The second part will go into restoring habitats and regenerative practices. It is about healing land and emulating nature.
The third is on design and creating an integrated system to grow in. I hope it offers some insight. This is all taken from my book, Radical Regenerative Gardening and Farming (Biodynamic Principles and Perspectives.
How to do an assessment of your ecosystem.
Water is a huge biological niche. It attracts a lot of life and is an important component to a balanced ecosystem. Three things to look at in examining water. Movement is necessary for it to replenish as a life source. Oxygen feeds life in the water. A drop in water provides for that. If you don't have that, you might want to set up a fountain. Riparian borders are a habitat that protects and preserves the biology along the water. Check for macro invertebrates with the screen method. Go to www.mostream.org Click on Water Quality Monitoring, and scroll down to macro invertebrates for a chart.
The woods is the next area of study. This is where insects and animals come from that move into your field and growing area. This is where you can inspect for habitats of small animals, birds and insects. It is also where you can find symbiotic relationships that favor a confluent ecosystem. Mushrooms growing at the base of trees is an example of fungus having a compatible relationship with tree roots. I have muscadine vines growing up into the trees. The trees provide a trellis. The grapes attract birds that also comb the trees for insects. The dead trees and leaf litter attract decomposers that break down materials that provide nutrients for plants. Older trees are the gene pool, younger trees are the regeneration of an ecosystem. Compatibility is the key to confluence in nature. A healthy wooded area is integral to a balanced ecosystem. Moving into a field you can observe the plants. Again look for diversity. A mix of grasses, dicotyledons, legumes and wildflowers create the diversity needed for healthy balance. Mushrooms indicate a good mycorrhizal presence. After heavy rains look for standing water. If this is present you may need to open up channels to drain the water. The field provides food for livestock or hay or mulch. My hay is for composting.
Insects are important to monitor. I use a combination of nets for flying insects and sticky traps. On my Sept. blog I discuss insects. Please refer to it for insect monitoring. Keep in mind that insect problems are simply indicators of an imbalance. I will refer to this more in the third part of this blog. Soils are pretty obvious. Soil is the element that is most stable and most fragile. If you dig you probably have a good idea of your soil. There are several plants that can be used as indicators. I think the simple thing to do is get a soil test done through the local Cooperative Extension Service. It can be done for a nominal fee. It will provide you with the PH and macro nutrients. It is good to do every 3 or 4 years to see how your soil has improved. Look at the soil profile to examine how much top soil you have. Many of us have little or no top soil. In this case you are in need of major soil restoration. There are plants that are natural healers of the soil. Sowthistle (Sonchus Oleraceus), alfalfa, all clovers, lupines, compfrey, stinging nettle and dandelion are a few that help replenish the soil. To monitor for soil insects is quite easy. Take a square foot out side of your growing beds. Do this after a light rain. Observe for soil insects, such as centipedes, millipedes, sowbugs and earthworms are all good decomposers. If you have around 10 - 12 earthworms per square foot, you are in good shape. A good steward of the land is a good soil builder. The last area is to observe energy flow. Water and air can be redirected. For example, edible hedgerows can be used as wind breaks. Wind breaks should redirect air flow not stop it. A row of plants can also redirect the flow of water. Groups of tall trees catch water in the form of rain. Small shrubs catch air flow. Tall plants create shade for other plants. Wild life habitats are useful along the edge of woods. There are many ways to work this into your design. More information is located in the design chapter of my book, Radical Regenerative Gardening and Farming.
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